Detail Solutions

All details include: wash and wax exterior, vacuum and/or shampoo of interior, pet fur removal, stain removal, glass cleaned, dash and doors wiped and shined, tires cleaned and shined, sap removal, and most mold removal. Extreme cases beyond normal cleaning will be priced individually depending on severity (EG: extreme mold or pet fur will cost more).

All prices are subject to change with notice and based on approval.

It feels good to drive a spotless vehicle and we would love to be a part of that!

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Small cars (2 seats or less)

  • Exterior: $89
  • Interior: $139
  • Combo: $199

Mid size car, small suv, or small truck - 2 rows of seats

  • Exterior: $99
  • Interior: $159
  • Combo: $239

LG vehicle - SUV, van, 4 door truck (5+ passenger)

  • Exterior: $109
  • Interior: $209
  • Combo: $299

XL vehicle - 3 rows 5+ passenger

  • Exterior: $119
  • Interior: $269
  • Combo: $349
All details include: wash and wax exterior, vacuum and/or shampoo of interior, pet fur removal, stain removal, glass cleaned, dash and doors wiped and shined, tires cleaned and shined, sap removal, and most mold removal. Extreme cases beyond normal cleaning will be priced individually depending on severity (EG: extreme mold or pet fur will cost more). All prices are subject to change with notice and based on approval. It feels good to drive a spotless vehicle and we would love to be a part of that! Make your appointment now with Auto Check Automotive!

Government Inspection (CVI)

Government commercial vehicle inspections and out of province vehicles can be performed at our facility.

 

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  • Pre-purchase Inspection

Tires & Tire Repair

Everything you ever wanted to know about setups!

Quick Tire Basics Tires are always the first element in setting up a car. If you've got the right tires, you're 90% there. Here is a quick basics on tire and insert choice

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Compound(Tire Material)

  • Harder
  • Less wear
  • Less grip
  • Less sidewall movement
  • Softer
  • More wear
  • More grip
  • More sidewall movement
Foam tires offer large amounts of grip, but also large amounts of wear. Any imperfections in the track will badly effect the life of a foam tire.

Inserts

  • Harder
  • Less grip on harder surfaces
  • Less sidewall movement
  • More predictable tire wear
 
  • Softer
  • More grip on harder surfaces
  • More sidewall movement
  • Less predictable tire wear
Choosing the right combination of Compound and inserts is important, too harder compounds will reduce the effect of softer inserts, and harder inserts will reduce the effects of a soft compound. Sidewall movement can help increase the cars grip at the start and end of turns, but will slightly effect the response of steering as the car moves around on the tire.

Tread Pattern

  • Pins
  • Extremely high wear on hard surfaces
  • Low traction on hard surfaces
  • Gives even traction in all directions on the tire
  • Traction greatly reduced by too much loose surface (such as sand)
 
  • X Pin
  • Medium-high wear on hard surfaces
  • Relatively low traction on hard surfaces
  • Gives even traction in all directions on the tire
  • Traction less effected by loose suface material (such as sand)
 
  • Paddle
  • High wear on hard surfaces (especially during acceleration)
  • Extremely good traction on loose surface material (such as sand)
  • Can drastically reduce steering on RWD vehicles
 
  • Grooved
  • Medium-low wear on hard surfaces
  • high side-to-side traction
  • Low traction on acceleration on loose surfaces
 
  • Smooth/Slicks
  • High traction on hard surfaces
  • Gives even traction in all directions on the tire
  • drastically reduces traction on loose surface material
V-Groove (onroad) improved traction in wet conditions during acceleration
  • Z-Pattern (onroad)
  • can help improve traction in loose surface material (such as dirt on track).
  • slightly decrease overall traction
  • more tire wear
Springs
  • Stiffer
  • Stiffer springs make the car feel more responsive, more direct.
  • They also help the car jump a little better and higher.
  • Stiff springs are suited for high-traction tracks, which aren't too bumpy.
 
  • Softer
  • Softer springs are better for (mildly) bumpy tracks.
  • They can also make the car feel as if it has a little more traction in low-grip conditions.
Stiffer Front The car has less front traction, and less steering. It's harder to get the car to turn, the turn radius is bigger and the car has a lot less steering exiting corners. The car will jump better, and maybe a little further. On very high-grip tracks, it's usually beneficial to stiffen the front, even more than the rear. It just makes the car easier to drive, and faster. Softer Front The car has more steering, especially in the middle part and the exit of the corner. Front springs that are too soft can make the car hook and spin, and they can also make it react sluggishly.
  • Stiffer Rear
  • The car has more steering, in the middle and exit of the turn. This is especially apparent in long, high-speed corners.
  • But rear traction is reduced.
 
  • Softer Rear
  • The car has generally more rear traction, in turns as well as through bumps and while accelerating.
Damping
  • Heavier
  • Thicker oil (heavier damping) makes the car more stable, and makes it handle more smoothly.
  • It also makes the car jump and land better.
  • If damping is too heavy, traction could be lost in bumpy sections.
 
  • Softer
  • Soft damping (and springing) is better for shallow, ripply bumps.
  • It also makes the car react quicker.
Damping should always be adapted to the spring ratio; the suspension should never feel too 'springy' or too slow.
  • Heavier Front
  • The turn radius is wider, but smoother. The car doesn't 'hook' suddenly.
  • The car is easier to drive, and high-speed steering feels very nice.
 
  • Softer Front
  • The steering reacts quicker.
  • More and better low-speed steering.
Heavier Rear Steering feels quick and responsive, while the rear stays relatively stable.
  • Softer Rear
  • Feels very easy to drive, the car can be 'thrown' into turns.
  • More rear traction while accelerating.
If one end of the car has slightly heavier damping than the other, then that end will feel as if it has the most consistent traction and the most stable when turning in and exiting corners. A car with slightly heavier rear damping, or slightly lighter front damping will feel very stable turning into corners on bumps or whoops sections. It won't feel 'touchy' at all. Caster More More caster aids stability, and handling in bumpy sections.
  • Less Less caster increases steering drastically.
  • Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.
Ride Height
  • Higher
  • The car feels better in bumps, and jumps better.
  • It can feel tippy, or even flip over in high-grip conditions.
 
  • Lower
  • The car feels more direct, and it can potentially corner a bit faster.
  • It's also harder to flip the car over.
Lowering one end of the car, or putting the other end higher up, gives a little more grip at the lowest end, but try to avoid big differences in ride height between the front and the rear. Wheelbase
  • Shorter
  • A short wheelbase makes the car feel very nimble, and good in tight turns.
  • This is a good idea for very small and tight tracks, without big jumps or bumps.
 
  • Longer
  • The car becomes a lot more stable, adn better in wide, high-speed turns.
  • This is good on wide-open tracks.
  • Anti-Squat This refers to the angle of caster on the rear wheels. Raising the front of the hinge pins of the rear arms gives a caster (anti-squat) angle and helps to transfer the power more evenly, keeping the front of the vehicle from lifting under heavy acceleration.
 
  • More
  • More anti-squat generally makes the rear of the car more sensitive to throttle input.
  • The car has more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners.
  • On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accelerating out of corners.
  • A car with more anti-squat can also jump a little higher and further, and it will soak up bumps a little better, off-power.
  • A lot of anti-squat (4° or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accelerating.
 
  • Less
  • Less anti-squat gives more rear traction while accelerating on a slippery or dusty track.
  • It also gives more side-bite.
  • Less anti-squat will make the car accelerate better and faster through bumpy sections.
  • Very little anti-squat (0° or 1°) makes the rear end feel very stable. It also makes power sliding a lot easier.
  • Note that anti-squat only works when you're accelerating or braking, it does absolutely nothing when you're coasting through turns.
  • The harder you brake or accelerate, the bigger the effect of anti-squat is.
Shock Pistons The assumption is made that if pistons are changed, the viscosity of the oil is also adapted, to give the same static feel. (Same low-speed damping)
  • Smaller Holes
  • Smaller holes mean more 'pack'. Pack means the damping gets very stiff, or almost locks up, over sharp bumps, ruts, or landing off jumps.
  • Small holes are good for smooth tracks, with big jumps or crummy jumps with harsh landings.
 
  • Bigger Holes
  • Bigger holes mean less pack. The point at which the damping gets stiff (where the shock 'packs up') occurs a lot later, at higher shock shaft speeds.
  • Big holes are very good for bumpy tracks. The car is more stable and has more traction in the bumpy sections. It won't be thrown up over sharp bumps, the suspension will soak them up a lot better.
 
  • Smaller holes in front
  • The car jumps very nicely, a little more nose-up.
  • It feels easy to drive.
 
  • Bigger holes in front
  • Can give a subtle feel of more steering and more consistent front end grip if the track isn't perfectly smooth.
  • Always use the same, or about the same shock pistons front and rear. Big differences in pistons make the car feel inconsistent, and not very smooth.
Lower Shock Mounting Location
  • Bear in mind that changing the lower shock mounting location changes the lever arm of the shocks on the wheels.
  • So mounting the shocks more inward makes the suspension softer at the wheel, and mounting the shocks more towards the outside makes the suspension stiffer.
 
  • Front more inward
  • More low-speed steering.
  • Usually makes the car very hard to drive.
 
  • Front more outward
  • Makes the car very stable, but it has a lot less low-speed steering.
 
  • Rear more inward
  • Makes the car soak up bumps a little better, and can make the car corner a bit faster.
  • Can be good for bumpy, low-grip tracks, but general stability is greatly reduced.
 
  • Rear more outward
  • Feels very stable.The way to go for high-grip tracks.
Upper Shock Mounting Location
  • More Inclined
  • Has a more progressive, smoother feel.
  • More lateral grip.
 
  • Less Inclined (More Vertical)
  • More direct feel;
  • Less lateral grip. (side-bite)
  • generally a bit better for jumps and harsh landings.
 
  • Front more inclined than rear
  • Steering feels very smooth.
  • A little more mid-corner steering.
  • Mounting the rear shocks very upright can result in the rear end sliding in the middle of the turn, especially in high-speed turns.
 
  • Rear more inclined than front.
  • Feels agressive turning in.
  • The car has a lot of side traction in the rear, and the turn radius isn't very tight.
Roll Center / Camber links
  • Long Link
  • A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns.
  • It feels as is the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further.
  • The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part.
 
  • Short Link
  • A short link makes that the body doesn't roll as far, its tendency to roll drops off as it rolls.
  • This can stabilize a car in bumps and curved sections.
  • It feels as is the car generates a little less grip.
 
  • Parallel Link (Parallel to lower arm)
  • A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one.
  • It feels very smooth, and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
 
  • Angled Link(Distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside)
  • An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (level, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar.
  • It gives a little more initial grip, steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car.
  • The body rolls a little less than with parallel links.
  • On bumpy tracks, it could be possible to use softer settings for damping and spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilising the car.
Beware that you should always keep an eye on the balance of your car; large differences in roll center front vs. rear will make the car feel less consistent and less confidence-inspiring.
  • Longer Front
  • The front rolls and dives more in turns.
  • Lots of steering in mid-corner.
  • Could make the car hook.
 
  • Shorter Front
  • The front feels very stable.
  • A little more turn-in, but less steering in mid-corner.
 
  • Longer Rear
  • More rear traction in turns, and coming out of them.
  • Rear end slide is very progressive, not unpredictable at all.
  • Make sure that there's enough rear camber though, or you could lose rear traction in turns.
 
  • Shorter Rear
  • The rear feels very stable. It breaks out later and more suddenly, but if it does, the slide is more controllable.
  • It makes the front dive a little more, which results in more steering, especially when braking.
 
  • More Angled Front
  • Turn-in is very agressive.
  • The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.
 
  • More Angled Rear
  • The rear end is rock-solid while turning in. It feels very confident.
Camber
  • Camber is best set so the tires' contact patch is as big as possible at all times. So with a stiff suspension you'll need less camber than with a soft one.
  • If the tires wear evenly across their contact patches, camber is about right.
  • On really bumpy tracks, adding a little more negative camber (2 to 3 degrees) can help traction and reduce the chances of catching a rut and flipping over.
Toe
  • Front Toe-in
  • Stabilizes the car in the straights, adn coming out of turns.
  • It smoothes out the steering response, making the car very easy to drive;
 
  • Front Toe-out
  • Increases turn-in steering a lot.
  • But can make the car wandery on the straights;
  • Never use more than 2 degrees of front toe-out!
 
  • Rear Toe-in
  • Stabilizes the car greatly. It makes the rear end 'stick', but more toe-in makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.
 
  • Rear Toe-out
  • Rear toe-out is never used. It makes the rear of the car very, very unstable.
Anti-Roll bar
  • Anti-roll bars are best used on smooth, and high-traction tracks only.
  • If you must use one on a bumpy track, try to use a very thin one.
  • Adding an anti-roll bar, or stiffening it, reduces traction at that end of the car. So it feels like the opposite end has more grip.
  • If the track is smooth enough, it also makes the grip level feel more consistent.
  • Anti-roll bars reduce body roll in turns, so they make the car feel more direct, and make it change direction quicker.
 
  • Stiffer Front
  • An anti-roll bar at the front of the car reduces low-speed steering. The turning radius will be larger, but very consistent.
  • It reduces 'hooking' by preventing front end roll.
  • The car will have more rear traction in turns.
 
  • Stiffer Rear
  • Adding an anti-roll bar to the rear of the car gives more steering. the car steers tighter, also at low speeds.
  • On a very smooth track, it can make powersliding easier. It can also make powering out of turns and lining up for jumps a little easier.
Ackermann
  • More(Bigger difference in steering angle between the two font wheels)
  • More Ackermann makes the steering more consistent, and smoother.
  • It just feels right, also at low speeds and in tight turns.
 
  • Less (Smaller, or no difference in steering angle between the two font wheels)
  • Less Ackermann makes the steering more agressive at high speeds.
  • The car turns in more agressively.
  • It doesn't work well when either traction or cornering speeds are low.
Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel
  • More (less droop/downtravel)
  • The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
  • Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
 
  • Less (more droop/downtravel)
  • Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
  • The car also land better after jumps.
  • The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
  • Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.
Wings
  • Front
  • Adding a front wing, or increasing front downforce increases steering at speed, which almost always makes the car feel very, very agressive and difficult to drive.
 
  • Rear
  • Adding rear downforce by changing to a bigger wing, or mounting he wing higher or at more of an angle increases rear traction at speed.
  • This can be very useful on slick tracks with fast, sweeping corners.
Pinion/Spur
  • Smaller Gear Ratio (bigger number means smaller ratio)
  • More punch and acceleration.
  • More runtime.
  • Lower top speed.
 
  • Bigger Gear Ratio (smaller number means bigger ratio)
  • Less punch, but more top speed.
  • Less runtime.
How Gear size (tooth count) effects gear ratio
  • Smaller Pinion Gear = Smaller gear ratio
  • Bigger pinion Gear = Bigger gear ratio
  • Smaller Spur Gear = Bigger gear ratio
  • Bigger Spur Gear = Smaller gear ratio
 
  • Overall Ratio
  • Overall Ratio = (Spur/Pinion)*Internal Gearbox Ratio
 
  • Rollout (mm/rev)
  • Rollout = (Pi*Tire Diameter)/Overall Ratio
Motors
  • More Turns(e.g. 13x2 or 14x3)
  • More runtime.
  • Less power, and smoother response.
  • Easy to drive.
 
  • Less Turns (e.g. 9x2 or 8x3)
  • Less runtime.
  • More power.
  • Harder to drive.
 
  • More Winds (e.g. 11x4 or 12x5)
  • Slightly more runtime.
  • Feels very smooth, has a nice powerband. Very useful on slippery tracks.
  • More top-end.
 
  • Less Winds (e.g. 12x1 or 11x2)
  • Slightly less runtime.
  • Feels very punchy, but has less top-end.
 
  • More Timing Advance (e.g. 6 to 8mm)
  • Less runtime.
  • More punch, and more top speed.
  • More wear on the comm and brushes.
  • Motor gets hotter.
 
  • Less Timing Advance (e.g. 4 to 6mm)
  • More runtime.
  • Easy on the comm and the brushes.
  • Less punch and top speed.
 
  • Stiffer Brush Springs
  • More power at low revs.
  • Slightly lower top speed because of increased friction.
  • Better for high currents and bumpy tracks.
 
  • Softer Brush Springs
  • More power at hight revs, but less punchy.
  • Higher top speed.
  • Good for low current draw.
 
  • TIP: You get slightly more punch and a slightly more efficient motor if you use a slightly stiffer brush spring on the + side.
  • The easiest way to do this is to hold one leg of the spring with pliers and gently bend the leg 5 to 10 degrees more.

Wheel Alignment Specialists

Auto Check Automotive is able to offer 4 wheel alignments. We are operating a state of the art John Bean 3D alignment machine, on a 110” wheelbase hoist.

We are specialists in 4 wheel drive, lifted trucks, collision related damage and problem alignments.Auto Check Automotive is known locally as The Shop to see for alignments on your Hot Rod, custom car or lifted truck.

Our talented technicians will work with you to see that your toy is set up the way you want it!

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Wheel Alignment Information

What is a wheel alignment?

A wheel alignment consists of making adjustments to the wheels of your vehicle to ensure that they are perpendicular to the ground, and parallel to each other. Wheels that are out of alignment will affect both the lifespan of the tires, and the handling of the vehicle. If your vehicle pulls to one side when driving on a straight and level road, you may need a wheel alignment.

How do I know if I need a wheel alignment?

Vehicle Pull Another indication that your wheels are out of alignment is if your vehicle continuously pulls to the left or right when you let go of the wheel. If your vehicle is hard to keep in a straight line without constantly steering, it is also in need of an alignment. Installation of New Parts If you have had repairs done to your car or truck such as ball joints, tie rod ends, struts and shocks, etc. you should have an alignment done as soon as possible. Most general repair shops do not have the equipment to do this job and sometimes they fail to inform the customer that it needs to be done. Collision Damage If you have hit a curb, large pothole or been involved in a crash, your vehicle should be checked for suspension damage and aligned if needed. If your car has body damage, most body shops do this as part of the repair procedure. Tire Wear Patterns It is a good idea to periodically check your tires for uneven wear patterns (see below). If you notice an obvious pattern, it may be too late to correct by getting the wheels properly aligned. Getting your vehicle checked for proper wheel alignment is the best way to prevent these wear patterns from developing. For each tire, insert a coin into the tread at the inside, center and outside: Overinflated Tire a) If the tread is deeper on the edges than in the center, the tire is over inflated. Underinflated Tire b) If the tread is deeper in the center than the edges, the tire is under inflated. Tire Wear from Wheel Alignment Problem c) If the tread is deeper on one side than the other, it is time to get your alignment checked by a professional. If the wear is significant it may be too late to even out the wear on that particular tire. Tire Wear from Wheel Alignment Problem d) Running your hand back and forth across the tread of the tire, check to see if it is uniformly smooth in both directions. If the tread is smooth in one direction but jagged in the other you have a “saw-tooth” wear pattern. This is caused by a toe-in problem. This condition causes rapid tire wear and should be corrected immediately.

What adjustments are made when performing a wheel alignment?

There are 3 things that are checked during an alignment: 1. Camber Camber is the measured angle of the wheel with the driving surface. If the top of the wheel is leaning in towards the center of the car, the wheel is said to have “negative camber”. If it is leaning away from the center of the car it has “positive camber”. If the camber is not at the correct angle it will cause uneven tire wear. Negative camber will cause tire wear on the inside of the tread and positive camber will cause tire wear on the outside of the tread. If the camber is out of adjustment on both front wheels, the vehicle may pull to one side. The pull will be towards the side with the more positive camber. 2. Caster The front wheels of your vehicle turn on a pivot that is attached to the suspension system. Caster is the angle of the steering pivot when viewed from the side of the vehicle. If the top of the pivot is leaning towards the front of the car the caster is negative, if it is leaning towards the back of the car the caster is positive. Although caster has very little effect on tire wear, if the caster on your vehicle is out of adjustment it can affect both the steering and straight line tracking. If the caster angle is not equal on both sides, the vehicle will pull to the side with the less positive caster. If the caster is equal on both sides, but too negative, the vehicle will have “light steering” and will be difficult to keep in a straight line and the vehicle will tend to wander. If the caster is equal but too positive, the vehicle will have “heavy steering” and the steering wheel may kick when you hit a bump. On many front-wheel drive vehicles the caster is not adjustable. If the caster is out of adjustment on one of these vehicles it is because something is worn or has been bent and must be repaired or replaced. 3. Toe in The toe measurement is the difference in measurement between the front of the tires and the back of the tires. It is usually set close to zero, meaning the wheels are parallel to each other. Toe-in means that the front of the wheels are closer together than the back of the wheels, and the wheels are pointing in towards each other. Toe-out is the opposite, meaning that the back of the wheels are closer together than the front. Incorrect or excessive toe-in will cause rapid tire wear on both front tires. This adjustment can be made on the front wheels of all cars, and on the back wheels of some.

Four Wheel Alignments

The most thorough type of wheel alignment is a four wheel alignment. Many vehicles have adjustable rear alignment settings, but even vehicles that don’t have these settings can benefit from a 4 wheel alignment. If there are any rear tracking problems identified during the analysis, they can be compensated for by making adjustments to the front wheels. There are 2 types of four wheel alignments:
  1.  Readings are taken on all 4 wheels of the car, but adjustments are only made on the front wheels. This type of four wheel alignment is done on vehicles that do not have any adjustments on the rear wheels
  2. Readings are taken on all 4 wheels of the car and adjustments are made on all 4 wheels. This is known as a “full” four wheel alignment.
When the wheel alignment is complete, the car is always test driven to check that it tracks in a straight line and that the steering wheel is in the correct position with the spokes level when driving straight. Pulling problems can also be caused by unequal tire pressure, problems with power steering or brakes.

What is wheel balancing?

A wheel is out of balance when one the wheel is heavier on one side than the other. To correct the imbalance, the wheel is mounted on a wheel balancing machine that locates the heavy section of the wheel. A lead weight is then attached to the opposite side of the wheel to compensate for the imbalance. Out of balance wheels can cause any of the following issues:
  1. Vibration in the steering wheel at certain highway speeds (most likely a front wheel out of balance)
  2. Vibration in the seat or floorboard at certain highway speeds (most likely a back wheel out of balance
  3. Scalloped or cupped wear pattern on the tires
Most high quality tires will hold their balance well and will very gradually go out of balance. Everything you ever wanted to know about setups!

Factory Scheduled Maintenance

Our experienced technicians can perform a full range of maintenance and mechanical services:

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Maintenance Services

  • Spark Plugs
  • Fuel Injection
  • Ignition Wires & Cables
  • Oil, Lube, and Filter
  • Tune Up & Motorvac

Undercar Services

  • 4 Wheel Alignment
  • Anti-lock Brake systems
  • Brakes
  • Chassis
  • Driveline
  • Exhaust
  • Shocks
  • Tires

Heating and Cooling Services

  • Air Conditioning
  • Belts & Hoses
  • Radiators
  • Heaters
  • Water Pump

Transmission Services

  • Automatic
  • Manual
  • Clutches
  • Differentials

Electronic Services

  • Computer
  • Check Engine Light
  • Diagnostics
  • Drivability
  • Engine Controls
  • Electrical Repairs

Internal Engine Services

  • Engine Replacment
  • Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Timing Belts

Miscellaneous Services

  • Pre-purchase inspections
  • Pre-trip inspection
  • Trailer hitches and wiring
  • Most extended warranties accepted

Air Conditioning Specialists

If you need the air conditioning in your car, truck or SUV repaired or serviced, you have come to the RIGHT place! We are well known for our expertise in all aspects of air conditioning. Our full range of services includes custom hoses and welding. If parts are not readily available for your classic car, we can help.

When you’re hot under the collar, give Auto Check a holler.

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  • Alternators
  • Fluid Flushes
  • Batteries
  • Shock and Strut Replacement
  • Coolant & Fluid Flush
  • Tune Ups
  • Oil Changes
  • Engine Timing Belt
  • Engine Swaps & Replacement
  • Transmission Filter and Flush
  • Brake Service
Detail Solutions

Detail Solutions

All details include: wash and wax exterior, vacuum and/or shampoo of interior, pet fur removal, stain removal, glass cleaned, dash and doors wiped and shined, tires cleaned and shined, sap removal, and most mold removal. Extreme cases beyond normal cleaning will be priced individually depending on severity (EG: extreme mold or pet fur will cost more).

All prices are subject to change with notice and based on approval.

It feels good to drive a spotless vehicle and we would love to be a part of that!

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Small cars (2 seats or less)

  • Exterior: $89
  • Interior: $139
  • Combo: $199

Mid size car, small suv, or small truck - 2 rows of seats

  • Exterior: $99
  • Interior: $159
  • Combo: $239

LG vehicle - SUV, van, 4 door truck (5+ passenger)

  • Exterior: $109
  • Interior: $209
  • Combo: $299

XL vehicle - 3 rows 5+ passenger

  • Exterior: $119
  • Interior: $269
  • Combo: $349
All details include: wash and wax exterior, vacuum and/or shampoo of interior, pet fur removal, stain removal, glass cleaned, dash and doors wiped and shined, tires cleaned and shined, sap removal, and most mold removal. Extreme cases beyond normal cleaning will be priced individually depending on severity (EG: extreme mold or pet fur will cost more). All prices are subject to change with notice and based on approval. It feels good to drive a spotless vehicle and we would love to be a part of that! Make your appointment now with Auto Check Automotive!
Government Inspection (CVI)

Government Inspection (CVI)

Government commercial vehicle inspections and out of province vehicles can be performed at our facility.

 

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  • Pre-purchase Inspection
Tires & Tire Repair

Tires & Tire Repair

Everything you ever wanted to know about setups!

Quick Tire Basics Tires are always the first element in setting up a car. If you've got the right tires, you're 90% there. Here is a quick basics on tire and insert choice

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Compound(Tire Material)

  • Harder
  • Less wear
  • Less grip
  • Less sidewall movement
  • Softer
  • More wear
  • More grip
  • More sidewall movement
Foam tires offer large amounts of grip, but also large amounts of wear. Any imperfections in the track will badly effect the life of a foam tire.

Inserts

  • Harder
  • Less grip on harder surfaces
  • Less sidewall movement
  • More predictable tire wear
 
  • Softer
  • More grip on harder surfaces
  • More sidewall movement
  • Less predictable tire wear
Choosing the right combination of Compound and inserts is important, too harder compounds will reduce the effect of softer inserts, and harder inserts will reduce the effects of a soft compound. Sidewall movement can help increase the cars grip at the start and end of turns, but will slightly effect the response of steering as the car moves around on the tire.

Tread Pattern

  • Pins
  • Extremely high wear on hard surfaces
  • Low traction on hard surfaces
  • Gives even traction in all directions on the tire
  • Traction greatly reduced by too much loose surface (such as sand)
 
  • X Pin
  • Medium-high wear on hard surfaces
  • Relatively low traction on hard surfaces
  • Gives even traction in all directions on the tire
  • Traction less effected by loose suface material (such as sand)
 
  • Paddle
  • High wear on hard surfaces (especially during acceleration)
  • Extremely good traction on loose surface material (such as sand)
  • Can drastically reduce steering on RWD vehicles
 
  • Grooved
  • Medium-low wear on hard surfaces
  • high side-to-side traction
  • Low traction on acceleration on loose surfaces
 
  • Smooth/Slicks
  • High traction on hard surfaces
  • Gives even traction in all directions on the tire
  • drastically reduces traction on loose surface material
V-Groove (onroad) improved traction in wet conditions during acceleration
  • Z-Pattern (onroad)
  • can help improve traction in loose surface material (such as dirt on track).
  • slightly decrease overall traction
  • more tire wear
Springs
  • Stiffer
  • Stiffer springs make the car feel more responsive, more direct.
  • They also help the car jump a little better and higher.
  • Stiff springs are suited for high-traction tracks, which aren't too bumpy.
 
  • Softer
  • Softer springs are better for (mildly) bumpy tracks.
  • They can also make the car feel as if it has a little more traction in low-grip conditions.
Stiffer Front The car has less front traction, and less steering. It's harder to get the car to turn, the turn radius is bigger and the car has a lot less steering exiting corners. The car will jump better, and maybe a little further. On very high-grip tracks, it's usually beneficial to stiffen the front, even more than the rear. It just makes the car easier to drive, and faster. Softer Front The car has more steering, especially in the middle part and the exit of the corner. Front springs that are too soft can make the car hook and spin, and they can also make it react sluggishly.
  • Stiffer Rear
  • The car has more steering, in the middle and exit of the turn. This is especially apparent in long, high-speed corners.
  • But rear traction is reduced.
 
  • Softer Rear
  • The car has generally more rear traction, in turns as well as through bumps and while accelerating.
Damping
  • Heavier
  • Thicker oil (heavier damping) makes the car more stable, and makes it handle more smoothly.
  • It also makes the car jump and land better.
  • If damping is too heavy, traction could be lost in bumpy sections.
 
  • Softer
  • Soft damping (and springing) is better for shallow, ripply bumps.
  • It also makes the car react quicker.
Damping should always be adapted to the spring ratio; the suspension should never feel too 'springy' or too slow.
  • Heavier Front
  • The turn radius is wider, but smoother. The car doesn't 'hook' suddenly.
  • The car is easier to drive, and high-speed steering feels very nice.
 
  • Softer Front
  • The steering reacts quicker.
  • More and better low-speed steering.
Heavier Rear Steering feels quick and responsive, while the rear stays relatively stable.
  • Softer Rear
  • Feels very easy to drive, the car can be 'thrown' into turns.
  • More rear traction while accelerating.
If one end of the car has slightly heavier damping than the other, then that end will feel as if it has the most consistent traction and the most stable when turning in and exiting corners. A car with slightly heavier rear damping, or slightly lighter front damping will feel very stable turning into corners on bumps or whoops sections. It won't feel 'touchy' at all. Caster More More caster aids stability, and handling in bumpy sections.
  • Less Less caster increases steering drastically.
  • Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.
Ride Height
  • Higher
  • The car feels better in bumps, and jumps better.
  • It can feel tippy, or even flip over in high-grip conditions.
 
  • Lower
  • The car feels more direct, and it can potentially corner a bit faster.
  • It's also harder to flip the car over.
Lowering one end of the car, or putting the other end higher up, gives a little more grip at the lowest end, but try to avoid big differences in ride height between the front and the rear. Wheelbase
  • Shorter
  • A short wheelbase makes the car feel very nimble, and good in tight turns.
  • This is a good idea for very small and tight tracks, without big jumps or bumps.
 
  • Longer
  • The car becomes a lot more stable, adn better in wide, high-speed turns.
  • This is good on wide-open tracks.
  • Anti-Squat This refers to the angle of caster on the rear wheels. Raising the front of the hinge pins of the rear arms gives a caster (anti-squat) angle and helps to transfer the power more evenly, keeping the front of the vehicle from lifting under heavy acceleration.
 
  • More
  • More anti-squat generally makes the rear of the car more sensitive to throttle input.
  • The car has more steering while braking, and also a little more powering out of corners.
  • On high-traction tracks, it may feel as if the car momentarily has more rear traction accelerating out of corners.
  • A car with more anti-squat can also jump a little higher and further, and it will soak up bumps a little better, off-power.
  • A lot of anti-squat (4° or more) can make the car spin out in turns, and make the rear end break loose when accelerating.
 
  • Less
  • Less anti-squat gives more rear traction while accelerating on a slippery or dusty track.
  • It also gives more side-bite.
  • Less anti-squat will make the car accelerate better and faster through bumpy sections.
  • Very little anti-squat (0° or 1°) makes the rear end feel very stable. It also makes power sliding a lot easier.
  • Note that anti-squat only works when you're accelerating or braking, it does absolutely nothing when you're coasting through turns.
  • The harder you brake or accelerate, the bigger the effect of anti-squat is.
Shock Pistons The assumption is made that if pistons are changed, the viscosity of the oil is also adapted, to give the same static feel. (Same low-speed damping)
  • Smaller Holes
  • Smaller holes mean more 'pack'. Pack means the damping gets very stiff, or almost locks up, over sharp bumps, ruts, or landing off jumps.
  • Small holes are good for smooth tracks, with big jumps or crummy jumps with harsh landings.
 
  • Bigger Holes
  • Bigger holes mean less pack. The point at which the damping gets stiff (where the shock 'packs up') occurs a lot later, at higher shock shaft speeds.
  • Big holes are very good for bumpy tracks. The car is more stable and has more traction in the bumpy sections. It won't be thrown up over sharp bumps, the suspension will soak them up a lot better.
 
  • Smaller holes in front
  • The car jumps very nicely, a little more nose-up.
  • It feels easy to drive.
 
  • Bigger holes in front
  • Can give a subtle feel of more steering and more consistent front end grip if the track isn't perfectly smooth.
  • Always use the same, or about the same shock pistons front and rear. Big differences in pistons make the car feel inconsistent, and not very smooth.
Lower Shock Mounting Location
  • Bear in mind that changing the lower shock mounting location changes the lever arm of the shocks on the wheels.
  • So mounting the shocks more inward makes the suspension softer at the wheel, and mounting the shocks more towards the outside makes the suspension stiffer.
 
  • Front more inward
  • More low-speed steering.
  • Usually makes the car very hard to drive.
 
  • Front more outward
  • Makes the car very stable, but it has a lot less low-speed steering.
 
  • Rear more inward
  • Makes the car soak up bumps a little better, and can make the car corner a bit faster.
  • Can be good for bumpy, low-grip tracks, but general stability is greatly reduced.
 
  • Rear more outward
  • Feels very stable.The way to go for high-grip tracks.
Upper Shock Mounting Location
  • More Inclined
  • Has a more progressive, smoother feel.
  • More lateral grip.
 
  • Less Inclined (More Vertical)
  • More direct feel;
  • Less lateral grip. (side-bite)
  • generally a bit better for jumps and harsh landings.
 
  • Front more inclined than rear
  • Steering feels very smooth.
  • A little more mid-corner steering.
  • Mounting the rear shocks very upright can result in the rear end sliding in the middle of the turn, especially in high-speed turns.
 
  • Rear more inclined than front.
  • Feels agressive turning in.
  • The car has a lot of side traction in the rear, and the turn radius isn't very tight.
Roll Center / Camber links
  • Long Link
  • A long link gives a lot of body roll in turns.
  • It feels as is the body is willing to keep on rolling, until in the end, the springs prevent it from rolling any further.
  • The car has more grip in corners, especially the middle part.
 
  • Short Link
  • A short link makes that the body doesn't roll as far, its tendency to roll drops off as it rolls.
  • This can stabilize a car in bumps and curved sections.
  • It feels as is the car generates a little less grip.
 
  • Parallel Link (Parallel to lower arm)
  • A parallel link gives a little more roll than an angled one.
  • It feels very smooth, and consistent as the body rolls in turns.
 
  • Angled Link(Distance between arm and link is smaller on the inside)
  • An angled link makes it feel as if the car has a tendency to center itself (level, no roll), other than through the springs or anti-roll bar.
  • It gives a little more initial grip, steering into corners. It makes it very easy to 'throw' the car.
  • The body rolls a little less than with parallel links.
  • On bumpy tracks, it could be possible to use softer settings for damping and spring rate than with parallel links, without destabilising the car.
Beware that you should always keep an eye on the balance of your car; large differences in roll center front vs. rear will make the car feel less consistent and less confidence-inspiring.
  • Longer Front
  • The front rolls and dives more in turns.
  • Lots of steering in mid-corner.
  • Could make the car hook.
 
  • Shorter Front
  • The front feels very stable.
  • A little more turn-in, but less steering in mid-corner.
 
  • Longer Rear
  • More rear traction in turns, and coming out of them.
  • Rear end slide is very progressive, not unpredictable at all.
  • Make sure that there's enough rear camber though, or you could lose rear traction in turns.
 
  • Shorter Rear
  • The rear feels very stable. It breaks out later and more suddenly, but if it does, the slide is more controllable.
  • It makes the front dive a little more, which results in more steering, especially when braking.
 
  • More Angled Front
  • Turn-in is very agressive.
  • The front feels as if it wants to roll less than the rear.
 
  • More Angled Rear
  • The rear end is rock-solid while turning in. It feels very confident.
Camber
  • Camber is best set so the tires' contact patch is as big as possible at all times. So with a stiff suspension you'll need less camber than with a soft one.
  • If the tires wear evenly across their contact patches, camber is about right.
  • On really bumpy tracks, adding a little more negative camber (2 to 3 degrees) can help traction and reduce the chances of catching a rut and flipping over.
Toe
  • Front Toe-in
  • Stabilizes the car in the straights, adn coming out of turns.
  • It smoothes out the steering response, making the car very easy to drive;
 
  • Front Toe-out
  • Increases turn-in steering a lot.
  • But can make the car wandery on the straights;
  • Never use more than 2 degrees of front toe-out!
 
  • Rear Toe-in
  • Stabilizes the car greatly. It makes the rear end 'stick', but more toe-in makes the difference between sticking and breaking loose bigger.
 
  • Rear Toe-out
  • Rear toe-out is never used. It makes the rear of the car very, very unstable.
Anti-Roll bar
  • Anti-roll bars are best used on smooth, and high-traction tracks only.
  • If you must use one on a bumpy track, try to use a very thin one.
  • Adding an anti-roll bar, or stiffening it, reduces traction at that end of the car. So it feels like the opposite end has more grip.
  • If the track is smooth enough, it also makes the grip level feel more consistent.
  • Anti-roll bars reduce body roll in turns, so they make the car feel more direct, and make it change direction quicker.
 
  • Stiffer Front
  • An anti-roll bar at the front of the car reduces low-speed steering. The turning radius will be larger, but very consistent.
  • It reduces 'hooking' by preventing front end roll.
  • The car will have more rear traction in turns.
 
  • Stiffer Rear
  • Adding an anti-roll bar to the rear of the car gives more steering. the car steers tighter, also at low speeds.
  • On a very smooth track, it can make powersliding easier. It can also make powering out of turns and lining up for jumps a little easier.
Ackermann
  • More(Bigger difference in steering angle between the two font wheels)
  • More Ackermann makes the steering more consistent, and smoother.
  • It just feels right, also at low speeds and in tight turns.
 
  • Less (Smaller, or no difference in steering angle between the two font wheels)
  • Less Ackermann makes the steering more agressive at high speeds.
  • The car turns in more agressively.
  • It doesn't work well when either traction or cornering speeds are low.
Internal Travel Limiters / Droop / Downtravel
  • More (less droop/downtravel)
  • The car changes direction faster, and corners flatter. It feels generally more responsive.
  • Adding a lot of travel limiters is only advisable on smooth tracks.
 
  • Less (more droop/downtravel)
  • Less internal shock spacers give better handling on bumpy tracks, and more and more consistent traction on difficult tracks.
  • The car also land better after jumps.
  • The end with the least downtravel will feel the most stable, and the most direct. But try to keep a balance (front and rear end droop about the same), especially on low-grip tracks.
  • Adding more internal travel limiters is a very effective way of reducing traction rolls, if not the most effective way.
Wings
  • Front
  • Adding a front wing, or increasing front downforce increases steering at speed, which almost always makes the car feel very, very agressive and difficult to drive.
 
  • Rear
  • Adding rear downforce by changing to a bigger wing, or mounting he wing higher or at more of an angle increases rear traction at speed.
  • This can be very useful on slick tracks with fast, sweeping corners.
Pinion/Spur
  • Smaller Gear Ratio (bigger number means smaller ratio)
  • More punch and acceleration.
  • More runtime.
  • Lower top speed.
 
  • Bigger Gear Ratio (smaller number means bigger ratio)
  • Less punch, but more top speed.
  • Less runtime.
How Gear size (tooth count) effects gear ratio
  • Smaller Pinion Gear = Smaller gear ratio
  • Bigger pinion Gear = Bigger gear ratio
  • Smaller Spur Gear = Bigger gear ratio
  • Bigger Spur Gear = Smaller gear ratio
 
  • Overall Ratio
  • Overall Ratio = (Spur/Pinion)*Internal Gearbox Ratio
 
  • Rollout (mm/rev)
  • Rollout = (Pi*Tire Diameter)/Overall Ratio
Motors
  • More Turns(e.g. 13x2 or 14x3)
  • More runtime.
  • Less power, and smoother response.
  • Easy to drive.
 
  • Less Turns (e.g. 9x2 or 8x3)
  • Less runtime.
  • More power.
  • Harder to drive.
 
  • More Winds (e.g. 11x4 or 12x5)
  • Slightly more runtime.
  • Feels very smooth, has a nice powerband. Very useful on slippery tracks.
  • More top-end.
 
  • Less Winds (e.g. 12x1 or 11x2)
  • Slightly less runtime.
  • Feels very punchy, but has less top-end.
 
  • More Timing Advance (e.g. 6 to 8mm)
  • Less runtime.
  • More punch, and more top speed.
  • More wear on the comm and brushes.
  • Motor gets hotter.
 
  • Less Timing Advance (e.g. 4 to 6mm)
  • More runtime.
  • Easy on the comm and the brushes.
  • Less punch and top speed.
 
  • Stiffer Brush Springs
  • More power at low revs.
  • Slightly lower top speed because of increased friction.
  • Better for high currents and bumpy tracks.
 
  • Softer Brush Springs
  • More power at hight revs, but less punchy.
  • Higher top speed.
  • Good for low current draw.
 
  • TIP: You get slightly more punch and a slightly more efficient motor if you use a slightly stiffer brush spring on the + side.
  • The easiest way to do this is to hold one leg of the spring with pliers and gently bend the leg 5 to 10 degrees more.
Wheel Alignment Specialists

Wheel Alignment Specialists

Auto Check Automotive is able to offer 4 wheel alignments. We are operating a state of the art John Bean 3D alignment machine, on a 110” wheelbase hoist.

We are specialists in 4 wheel drive, lifted trucks, collision related damage and problem alignments.Auto Check Automotive is known locally as The Shop to see for alignments on your Hot Rod, custom car or lifted truck.

Our talented technicians will work with you to see that your toy is set up the way you want it!

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Wheel Alignment Information

What is a wheel alignment?

A wheel alignment consists of making adjustments to the wheels of your vehicle to ensure that they are perpendicular to the ground, and parallel to each other. Wheels that are out of alignment will affect both the lifespan of the tires, and the handling of the vehicle. If your vehicle pulls to one side when driving on a straight and level road, you may need a wheel alignment.

How do I know if I need a wheel alignment?

Vehicle Pull Another indication that your wheels are out of alignment is if your vehicle continuously pulls to the left or right when you let go of the wheel. If your vehicle is hard to keep in a straight line without constantly steering, it is also in need of an alignment. Installation of New Parts If you have had repairs done to your car or truck such as ball joints, tie rod ends, struts and shocks, etc. you should have an alignment done as soon as possible. Most general repair shops do not have the equipment to do this job and sometimes they fail to inform the customer that it needs to be done. Collision Damage If you have hit a curb, large pothole or been involved in a crash, your vehicle should be checked for suspension damage and aligned if needed. If your car has body damage, most body shops do this as part of the repair procedure. Tire Wear Patterns It is a good idea to periodically check your tires for uneven wear patterns (see below). If you notice an obvious pattern, it may be too late to correct by getting the wheels properly aligned. Getting your vehicle checked for proper wheel alignment is the best way to prevent these wear patterns from developing. For each tire, insert a coin into the tread at the inside, center and outside: Overinflated Tire a) If the tread is deeper on the edges than in the center, the tire is over inflated. Underinflated Tire b) If the tread is deeper in the center than the edges, the tire is under inflated. Tire Wear from Wheel Alignment Problem c) If the tread is deeper on one side than the other, it is time to get your alignment checked by a professional. If the wear is significant it may be too late to even out the wear on that particular tire. Tire Wear from Wheel Alignment Problem d) Running your hand back and forth across the tread of the tire, check to see if it is uniformly smooth in both directions. If the tread is smooth in one direction but jagged in the other you have a “saw-tooth” wear pattern. This is caused by a toe-in problem. This condition causes rapid tire wear and should be corrected immediately.

What adjustments are made when performing a wheel alignment?

There are 3 things that are checked during an alignment: 1. Camber Camber is the measured angle of the wheel with the driving surface. If the top of the wheel is leaning in towards the center of the car, the wheel is said to have “negative camber”. If it is leaning away from the center of the car it has “positive camber”. If the camber is not at the correct angle it will cause uneven tire wear. Negative camber will cause tire wear on the inside of the tread and positive camber will cause tire wear on the outside of the tread. If the camber is out of adjustment on both front wheels, the vehicle may pull to one side. The pull will be towards the side with the more positive camber. 2. Caster The front wheels of your vehicle turn on a pivot that is attached to the suspension system. Caster is the angle of the steering pivot when viewed from the side of the vehicle. If the top of the pivot is leaning towards the front of the car the caster is negative, if it is leaning towards the back of the car the caster is positive. Although caster has very little effect on tire wear, if the caster on your vehicle is out of adjustment it can affect both the steering and straight line tracking. If the caster angle is not equal on both sides, the vehicle will pull to the side with the less positive caster. If the caster is equal on both sides, but too negative, the vehicle will have “light steering” and will be difficult to keep in a straight line and the vehicle will tend to wander. If the caster is equal but too positive, the vehicle will have “heavy steering” and the steering wheel may kick when you hit a bump. On many front-wheel drive vehicles the caster is not adjustable. If the caster is out of adjustment on one of these vehicles it is because something is worn or has been bent and must be repaired or replaced. 3. Toe in The toe measurement is the difference in measurement between the front of the tires and the back of the tires. It is usually set close to zero, meaning the wheels are parallel to each other. Toe-in means that the front of the wheels are closer together than the back of the wheels, and the wheels are pointing in towards each other. Toe-out is the opposite, meaning that the back of the wheels are closer together than the front. Incorrect or excessive toe-in will cause rapid tire wear on both front tires. This adjustment can be made on the front wheels of all cars, and on the back wheels of some.

Four Wheel Alignments

The most thorough type of wheel alignment is a four wheel alignment. Many vehicles have adjustable rear alignment settings, but even vehicles that don’t have these settings can benefit from a 4 wheel alignment. If there are any rear tracking problems identified during the analysis, they can be compensated for by making adjustments to the front wheels. There are 2 types of four wheel alignments:
  1.  Readings are taken on all 4 wheels of the car, but adjustments are only made on the front wheels. This type of four wheel alignment is done on vehicles that do not have any adjustments on the rear wheels
  2. Readings are taken on all 4 wheels of the car and adjustments are made on all 4 wheels. This is known as a “full” four wheel alignment.
When the wheel alignment is complete, the car is always test driven to check that it tracks in a straight line and that the steering wheel is in the correct position with the spokes level when driving straight. Pulling problems can also be caused by unequal tire pressure, problems with power steering or brakes.

What is wheel balancing?

A wheel is out of balance when one the wheel is heavier on one side than the other. To correct the imbalance, the wheel is mounted on a wheel balancing machine that locates the heavy section of the wheel. A lead weight is then attached to the opposite side of the wheel to compensate for the imbalance. Out of balance wheels can cause any of the following issues:
  1. Vibration in the steering wheel at certain highway speeds (most likely a front wheel out of balance)
  2. Vibration in the seat or floorboard at certain highway speeds (most likely a back wheel out of balance
  3. Scalloped or cupped wear pattern on the tires
Most high quality tires will hold their balance well and will very gradually go out of balance. Everything you ever wanted to know about setups!
Factory Scheduled Maintenance

Factory Scheduled Maintenance

Our experienced technicians can perform a full range of maintenance and mechanical services:

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Maintenance Services

  • Spark Plugs
  • Fuel Injection
  • Ignition Wires & Cables
  • Oil, Lube, and Filter
  • Tune Up & Motorvac

Undercar Services

  • 4 Wheel Alignment
  • Anti-lock Brake systems
  • Brakes
  • Chassis
  • Driveline
  • Exhaust
  • Shocks
  • Tires

Heating and Cooling Services

  • Air Conditioning
  • Belts & Hoses
  • Radiators
  • Heaters
  • Water Pump

Transmission Services

  • Automatic
  • Manual
  • Clutches
  • Differentials

Electronic Services

  • Computer
  • Check Engine Light
  • Diagnostics
  • Drivability
  • Engine Controls
  • Electrical Repairs

Internal Engine Services

  • Engine Replacment
  • Cylinder Head Gasket
  • Timing Belts

Miscellaneous Services

  • Pre-purchase inspections
  • Pre-trip inspection
  • Trailer hitches and wiring
  • Most extended warranties accepted
Air Conditioning Specialists

Air Conditioning Specialists

If you need the air conditioning in your car, truck or SUV repaired or serviced, you have come to the RIGHT place! We are well known for our expertise in all aspects of air conditioning. Our full range of services includes custom hoses and welding. If parts are not readily available for your classic car, we can help.

When you’re hot under the collar, give Auto Check a holler.

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  • Alternators
  • Fluid Flushes
  • Batteries
  • Shock and Strut Replacement
  • Coolant & Fluid Flush
  • Tune Ups
  • Oil Changes
  • Engine Timing Belt
  • Engine Swaps & Replacement
  • Transmission Filter and Flush
  • Brake Service
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